Restaurant Arras – Sydney CBD

Thursday, 8 Nov 12

this feels so right, it can’t be wrong, so far as I can see

Can you believe it has been 1585 days since I started blogging here? Granted, it’s been fairly sparse in recent years, but to think that twic has surpassed the 1500 day mark is a surprise, and makes me feel rather old… But not as old as Tim, who recently celebrated his 28th birthday. That’s right hon…you’re almost 30. ;)

Rocket and parmesan salad

So, just to make sure he was feeling his age, I organised to go out to dinner at an undisclosed location, and then deliberately spent a good 30 minutes going on a wild goose chase around the city to make sure he had no idea where he was going. Of course, we did have a booking arranged, so he eventually guessed the location when we ended up at the re-located Restaurant Arras, which has taken over the spot where Becasse once lived on Clarence Street.

Cauliflower, cumin

To begin with, two amuse bouche were rapidly brought out to the table, and very quickly set the scene for a novel and artistically presented dinner. Intensely green bites of “rocket and parmesan salad” balanced precariously on forks, and offered the gestalt of the salad in a single crunchy custardy slippery mouthful (without the potential awkwardness of too large salad leaves that inevitably results in me appearing somewhat bovine as I munch away).  Glasses of fried cauliflower, and silky cauliflower puree highlighted the moreish sweetness of the vegetable, and left us scraping the cups.

Mushroom  and artichoke consomme

Pretty as a picture, mushrooms of all textures appeared to sprout out of a small hillock of artichoke puree. At the table, crystal clear consomme was poured over, giving the impression of autumn leaves floating in a puddle kissed by sunset. I’ve only recently discovered the joys of artichokes and was glad to have the opportunity to love it further (having been turned off it in childhood when it was always presented overcooked and stuffed with meat which would take on the strong smell of the skin).

Smoked eel, bacon and carrot

 Creatively presented, this course seemed to literally come off the plate, as dollops of carrot and black pudding crunches and apple lined the edges of the plate. Neither Tim and I were a fan of the eel by itself, but together with the sweetness of the poached apples and carrot puree, it seemed to work more than the sum of its parts.

In the weeds

Looking more like a still life arrangement than food, this dish highlighted to Tim the sheer novelty of the presentation. Various marinated, raw and pickled vegetables wrapped new potatoes and herbs like pieces of bark and rolled leather, offering crunch and sourness. We were quite taken by the almost gelatinous slow cooked onion.

Roast skate – Parsnip, raisins, capers and butter

This dish was a highlight. Snow-like butter powder melted on the tongue, playing on the classic combination of skate and butter. I could go on more about how the capers and raisins added some much needed contrast in terms of their pops of flavour, but really…it was all about the butter.

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Scallops and sweetbreads

I’ve never tried sweetbreads before, and was pleasantly surprised. A fried crispy exterior gave way to a centre which was almost creamy in texture, and mild in flavour. New experiences.

Duck, duck and duck

I suppose it was almost inevitable that this dish would be highly appreciated given Tim’s love of duck. Duck breast, duck fat potatoes all delighted…duck tongue was again a new experience that neither Tim or I had tried in the past. Since we both love ox-tongue, neither of us were too squeamish about it, and indeed were both quite appreciative of the contrasting texture it provided. Golden dates again provided a sweet foil.

Spring lamb

Now, our visit was at the end of September, and in between learning about ARIMA models and infarctions and aneurysms, I’m struggling to remember exactly what animal the oh-my-god-so-tender-and-sticky rib came from. My hunch was that it was lamb, given the artistic swirls and dollops were very much of spring theme. Lamb rib, slow cooked lamb shoulder and lamb liver rings a bell, while the memory of the almost sugar sweet heirloom carrots brings out a sigh…

Rhubarb

I’ve never been a fan of rhubarb – It’s not something I’ve ever eaten on a regular basis and to be honest, a lot of the components on this pretty playground of pink were far too tart for me. However, when eaten with the milk custards and crunchy malt bark, it balanced out nicely, with a floral spark given by lavender gel.

Peanut butter and jelly

I was far more taken by this next dessert. Hot chocolate mousse, sour cherry icecream, peanut crunches. Tim and I sat in quiet awe and appreciation through the first half of the dessert. Then he piped up “That’s a clever play on words: ‘peanut butter and cherry'”. I face-palmed.

 Petit fours

 I’d been teasing Tim all night that there was a surprise coming, one that he would really enjoy. When this mammoth of a lolly tray was brought out, I watched as his eyes widened. And then nearly popped out when we were told “you can choose as many as you like…so long as you finish them”. Pate au fruits, honeycomb, chocolates, marshmallows, sweet mouthfuls of cream in a cone, trust me when I say we were quite literally like children in a candy store.

If you wanna go, baby let’s go, if you wanna rock, I’m ready to roll

Restaurant Arras

204 Clarence Street, Sydney NSW 2000

(02) 92831922

Posted at 7:39 am in Eating Out, Sydney | Respond?

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